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Palestinian designer Yasmeen Mjalli says Olivia Rodrigo kept her business alive. In an interview published Sept. 7 with Vogue Arabia, Mjalli shared that Rodrigo’ commission with Nöl Collective came during a time when she said the label was poised to shut down.
Nöl Collective was established in 2020 and partners with women’ cooperatives, family-owned sewing workshops, and independent embroiderers throughout the West Bank. Headquartered in Ramallah, fashion cooperative collaborates with artisans in Bethlehem and Gaza. Palestinian fashion traditions like tatreez hand embroidery and Majdalawi weaving define the brand’s unique aesthetic.
“Midway through the year, we hit some major operational challenges,” Mjalli told Vogue Arabia. “We ordered some naturally dyed handwoven wool from India for our fall collection and it was detained by Israeli customs for months before being destroyed. I then tried to travel to Jerusalem to find some backup fabric, but Israeli military closed the roads coming out of Ramallah.”
“I remember saying to my mom, ‘Maybe this is it. Maybe this is our last effort,’” she added. “I was genuinely like, maybe we should stop. I was just so tired.”
It was during this time that Rodrigo reached out. Later that week, Nöl received a request from Rodrigo’s team to design a dress she could wear to announce her debut Daisy Chain Fields Music Festival in Los Angeles. On Aug. 28, Rodrigo appeared at the press conference for the music festival in Santa Monica, California. Festival proceedings happened the following day in Irvine, California.
“We were like, divine intervention,” Mjalli said of Rodrigo’s commission. With less than a week until the press conference, Mjalli scoured the West Bank and managed to find baby-pink raw silk fiber in Ramallah with the help of a colleague. Ramallah’s distance from Bethlehem doubled the trip’s drive time to three hours because of Israeli military checkpoints.
Mjalli then brought the silk fiber to local artisans in Bethlehem to produce the dress. Multiple hands touched the pale pink raw silk minidress during production, passing through nine pairs of hands total. Embroiderers Um Musa and Um Mohammad also contributed to the handmade garment.
The dress featured Palestinian tatreez embroidery with birds and a chain of daisies. To Vogue Arabia, Mjalli said the embroidery element was added to honor the festival’s name. When it was finished, shipping the piece to California became another obstacle. Due to an inability to find local courier services that could deliver the dress on time, Rodrigo received help from two strangers who volunteered to bring it on their luggage.
Rodrigo wore the Nöl dress at the Daisy Chain Fields press conference earlier this month. Proceeds from the festival benefits nonprofit organizations that work to “empower and advocate for women and girls,” according to the event website. Stevie Nicks, Chappell Roan, Doechii, Mitski, and Garbage also performed at the festival.
For Mjalli, Palestine-based businesses have suffered since Israeli authorities revoked Palestinians’ work permits on Oct. 7, 2023. That month, Israel launched an offensive on Gaza following an attack from Hamas. The fashion designer added that more Palestinian women are turning to embroidery as a result of lost income due to the revocation of work permits. For some, businesses like Nöl provide the only opportunity to support themselves and their families.
“We have kids and families that depend on us, so we keep going so that the community continues to thrive,” she said.
“Fashion is political no matter where you are situated,” Mjalli added. “We’re still here, we have not been forgotten.” She also said she saw Rodrigo wearing a Nöl Collective dress as another form of the singer’ political stance. “Your punk-rock music sensibilities, your political views as a punk rocker should include Palestine,” she continued.
Rodrigo has previously addressed the conflict in Gaza. During a May interview with The New York Times’ Popcast, she was questioned about using her platform for political expression.
“I think it would just be disingenuous to be like, ‘I don’ care about what’ happening in Gaza. I don’t feel heartbroken about what’s going on,’” Rodrigo replied. “As an artist, I feel like that’ what you do,” she continued before adding “always like I could be doing more and saying more.”
Rodrigo’ decision to reach out to Nöl has resonated with fans across social media. “This is someone using their privilege and position for good,” one person wrote on X. “That Olivia commission didn’t just pay for a dress. It probably gave the entire team a reason to believe again,” another added.
Nöl Collective currently operates out of Ramallah. Mjalli told Vogue Arabia the brand’s designs are “intricately woven” with the region’s political history and served as a form of resistance.
